P  vej 

I  .  C  no.  H? 

c.p.3 

^  Bulletin  No.  48.  January,  1898. 

V 

Ik 

Qt^EGO]^  AGP{ICUETUF{Ab 


:  Experiment  Station 


The  Bulletins  of  this  Station  are  sent  Free  to  all  Residents  of 

Oregon  who  request  them. 


if* 


I 


3000. 


AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGE  PRINTING  OFFICE. 
G,  B.  READY,  PRINTER.  ' 

1898. 


BOARD  OF  REGENTS 


/.  T.  APPERSON^  Presideyit . Oregon  City 

W.  E.  YATES,  Secretary . Corvallis 

J.  K.  WEATHEREORI),  Treasurer . Albany 

WM.  P.  LORD,  Governor . Salem 

H.  R.  KINCAID,  Secretary  of  State . Salem 

G.  M.  IRWIN,  Supt.  Public  I?istructio7i . Salem 

WM.  M.  HILLEARY,  Master  State  Gra^ige . Turner 

T.  W.  DAVENPORT . SUverton 

W.  P.  READY . Portland 

WALLIS  NASH. . Portland 

BENTON  KILL  IN . Portlarid 

JONAS  M.  CHURCH. . La  Grande 

SAMUEL  HUGHES . Eorest  Grove 


COMMITTEES. 

EXECUTIVE. 

SAMUEL  HUGHES,  Chairman,  W.  E.  YATES,  Secretary.  J .  T.  A PPE RSOH . 

WILLIAM  M.  HILLEARY,  BE  A  TOM  KILLIN. 

FINANCE. 

BENTON  KILLIN,  WM.  M.  HILLEARY,  J.  M.  CHURCH 

AGRICULTURE  A  N  D  C  H  EM  ISTR  Y. 

BENTON  KILLIN,  WILLIAM  M.  HILLEARY. 

HORTICULTURE  AND  ENTOMOLOGY. 

SAMUEL  HUGHES,  J.  K.  WE  A  THERFORD. 

MECHANICSAND  HOUSEHOLD  ECONOMY. 

I.  K.  WEATHERFORD,  SAMUEL  HUGHES,  WALLIS  NASH. 

LITERARY  DEPARTMENT  AND  LIBRARY. 

WALLIS  NASH,  T.  W.  DAVENPORT. 

ADVERTISING  AND  PRINTING. 

W.  P.  KEADY,  W.  E.  YATES. 

BUILDINGS  AND  GROUNDS. 

W.  E.  YA  TES,  J.  M.  CHURCH. 

FARMERS’  INSTITUTES. 

J.  K.  WE  A  THERFORD,  W.  E.  YA  TES. 


OFFICERS  OF  THE  STATION. 


THOMAS  M.  GATCH,  A.  M.,  Ph.  D . President  and  Director 

H.  T.  FRENCH,  M.  S . Agriculturist 

G.  W.  SHA  W,  Ph.  D .  Chemist 

A.  B.  CORDLEY,  B.  S. . Entomologist 

MOSES  CRAIG,  M.  S.  H. . Botanist 

GEO.  COO  TE . Horticultindst 

E.  F.  PER  NOT. .  Bacteriologist 


SPRAYINO. 


Previous  bulletins  of  this  Station,  the  horticultural  and  agri¬ 
cultural  press,  and  the  publications  of  the  State  Board  of  Horticul- 

. . . . . . . . ,,, _ .  .  tu re,  have  so 


widely  dis- 
sern  i  n  a  t  e  d 
informatio  n 
regarding 
spraying  op¬ 
erations  that 
another  bul¬ 
letin  on  the 
subject  may 
seem  almost 
superfluous . 
|.  ■  But  the  fact 

that  spray¬ 
ing  is  com¬ 
ing  to  be  such  an  essential 
to  successful  fruit  culture, 
together  with  the  fact  that 
the  edition  of  Bulletin  No. 
41,  on  Spraying,  is  complete¬ 
ly  exhausted,  makes  it  neces¬ 
sary  to  issue  such  a  bulletin 
for  the  purpose  of  supplying 
information  to  those  who  still 
continue  to  ask  for  it. 

In  the  following  pages  no 
attempt  has  been  made  to 
record  alone  the  results  of 
our  own  experience.  On  the 
^  contrary,  we  have  drawn 
freely  upon  all  available 
sources--the  horticultural  press,  the  bulletins  of  other  stations, 
the  publications  of  the  United  States  l)e{)artment  of  Agi‘iculture, 


4 


and  the  experience  of  local  fruit  growers,  as  well  as  our  own  ex¬ 
perience,  but  have  endeavored  to  select  and  to  recommend  only 
those  thoughts  and  operations  which  our  experience  and  observa¬ 
tions  during  the  past  two  years  have  convinced  us  are  most  valu¬ 
able  under  the  conditions  prevailing  in  this  State. 

IMPORTAXX^E  OF  SPRAYIXG. 

We  do  not  believe  that  spraying  is  the  one  essential — or  even 
the  most  essential — requisite  to  successful  fruit  culture.  We  do 
not  even  believe  that  it  is  the  only  means  that  should  be  employ¬ 
ed  to  hold  in  check  the  numerous  insect  and  fungus  pests  of  cul¬ 
tivated  crops.  But  we  do  believe  that  in  this  age  of  the  codling 
moth  and  apple  scab,  of  woolly  aphis  and  apple  canker,  San 
Jose  scale  and  brown  rot,  he  is  wise  who  msures  his  fruit  and 
trees  against  the  ravages  of  these  pests  by  a  judicious  use  of  the 
spray  pump. 

We  believe  that  everyone  who  owns  an  apple  tree,  a  pear  tree, 
a  cherry  tree,  a  fruit  tree  of  any  kind,  should  spray  that  tree  or 
cut  it  down.  We  believe  this  because  observation  has  convinced 
us  that  there  are  indeed  few  fruit  trees  that  are  not  infested  with 
some  form  of  insect  pest  or  fungus  disease,  and  ever}^  infested  tree 
that  remains  standing  and  neglected  is  a  constant  menace  to  the 
many  valuable  orchards  of  the  State.  This  obligation  should 
rest  not  alone  upon  those  who  are  in  the  business  of  fruit  grow¬ 
ing.  It  should  apply  as  well  to  the  farmer  who  grows  fruit  only 
for  family  use,  and  to  the  dweller  in  town  or  city  who  grows  only 
a  few  trees  in  the  back  yard  or  on  a  vacant  lot.  It  should  apply 
with  particular  force  to  the  two  last  classes.  The  progressive 
horticulturist  knows  that  the  health,  even  the  life  of  his  trees, 
the  quality  of  his  fruit,  and  hence  the  degree  of  his  success,  oft- 
times  depends  on  a  right  use  of  the  spra}^  pump. 

WHY  WE  SHOULD  SPRAY. 

Knowing  that  he  had  dealt  extensively  in  Rogue  River  apples 
the  past  season,  I  wrote  Hon.  H.  B.  Miller  of  Eugene  for  an  esti¬ 
mate  of  the  loss  sustained  by  the  fruit  growers  of  Oregon  through 
the  ravages  of  fruit  pests.  No  better  argument  in  favor  of  a  wide¬ 
spread  use  of  the  spray  pump  can  be  advanced  than  his  reply 
which  is  as  follows: 


5 


“  In  the  district  where  we  packed  nearly  forty  carloads  of  ap¬ 
ples  the  pack  did  not  average  over  fifty  per  cent,  of  the  fruit  picked. 
This  was  in  Jackson  and  Josephine  counties. 

“The  greatest  damage  was  caused  by  the  codling  moth,  but  I 
also  found  a  few  orchards  that  had  been  great  producers  almost 
ruined  by  canker,  and  many  other  valuable  orchards  almost 
ruined  by  San  Jose  scale.  The  entire  crop  of  several  orchards, 
with  a  thousand  bushels  each  of  otherwise  tine  apples,  was  worth¬ 
less  because  of  scale.  It  is  quite  safe  to  say  that  in  the  Rogue 
River  country  alone  the  loss  of  fruit  from  moth  and  scale  equalled 
fifty  thousand  dollars,  and  the  work  of  the  codling  moth  and  the 
apple  scab  throughout  the  Willamette  valley  is  so  bad  that  not 
one-tenth  of  the  apples  are  marketable.  I  believe  it  a  very  mod¬ 
erate  estimate  of  the  loss  in  this  State  this  year  from  scale,  moth 
and  scab  to  place  it  at  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars. 

“The  limited  amount  of  spraying  was  a  great  surprise  to  me. 
/  a7n  fr77ily  eonvineed  that  tzvo-thirds  of  the  orchards  nozv  bearhig 
good  fruit  zvill  be  worthless  zvithm  fve  years  beeause  of  failure  to 
spray.  ’  ’ 

WILL  SPRAYING  PREVENT  THIS  LOSS. 

Nearly  everyone  is  aware  of  the  serious  losses  caused  by  the 
ravages  of  insects  and  fungi,  but  all  are  not  convinced  that  spray¬ 
ing  will  prevent  this  loss.  Some  are  skeptical  because  they  have 
sprayed  their  trees  and  have  seen  no  beneficial  results,  but  most 
are  skeptical  because  it  is  easier  to  doubt  and  lose  their  fruit 
than  it  is  to  dispel  their  doubt  and  save  their  fruit  by  an  intel¬ 
ligent  use  of  the  spray  pump. 

It  is  generally  admitted  that  eastern  fruit  growers  may  use  the 
spray  pump  advantageously,  and  that  even  in  this  State  experi¬ 
mental  spraying  may  be  successful.  The  belief  seems  to  be  quite 
general,  however,  that  our  excessive  rainfall  during  the  spring 
months  is  an  important  factor  in  making  spraying  on  a  large 
scale  ineffectual  in  this  State.  I  have  therefore  thought  best  to 
supplement  our  own  experience  with  that  of  a  few  prominent 
fruit  growers  in  various  parts  of  Oregon. 

Mr.  C.  E.  Stewart,  of  Medford,  one  of  the  most  extensive  grow¬ 
ers  of  apples  and  pears  in  Oregon,  writes  as  follows: 

“I  have  failed  to  make  a  memorandum  of  dates  but  sprayed 
just  as  soon  as  the  blossoms  dropped  from  the  fruit  and  before 


f) 

the  calyx  closed.  The  second  spraying  was  three  weeks  after  tlie 
first  and  the  third  spraying  three  weeks  after  the  second.  (This 
last  spraying  did  little  good  as  a  heavy  rain  washed  most  of  it  off). 
The  fourth  spraying  was  commenced  July  5th. 

“  Up  to  this  time  there  was  no  wormy  fruit  in  the  orchard,  hut 
al)Out  the  20th  I  found  some  worms  and  many  eggs  on  the  out¬ 
side  rows  on  three  sides  of  the  orchard.  Put  in  one  day  spray¬ 
ing  them.  The  result  was  that  at  picking  time  the  Bartletts, 
Howells,  Clairgeaus  and  Winter  Nelis  were  practically  clean, 
there  being  not  more  than  one-half  of  one  per  cent,  wormy  except 
on  three  Bardlett  trees  on  which  the  first  spi'aying  was  omitted  to  test 
the  value  of  early  treatment,  but  which  were  sprayed  like  the 
others  the  balance  of  the  season.  The  fruit  on  these  three  trees 
at  picking  time  was  fully  fifty  per  cent,  wormy. 

“I  tried  the  same  experiment  on  apples  during  the  summer  of 
1896  with  the  same  result.  The  per  cent,  of  apples  saved  this 
year  is  fully  ninety-five,  and  the  loss  nearly  all  occurred  on  out¬ 
side  rows  where  the  moths  came  in  from  unsprayed  orchards. 

“I  have  a  young  apple  orchard  of  eleven  acres  that  commenced 
hearing  last  season  and  which  was  not  sprayed.  It  is  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  main  orchard  and  one-half  mile  from 
any  bearing  apple  or  pear  trees.  The  fruit  in  this  orchard  was 
nearly  all  wormy.  I  took  thirty-two  wormy  apples  out  of  forty- 
eight  from  one  tree  in  July. 

“The  spray  I  used  this  season  and  last  consisted  of  one-half 
pound  of  Paris  green,  one-half  pound  of  London  purple,  and  four 
or  five  pounds  of  lime  to  one  hundred  and  sixty  gallons  of  water 
for  the  first  two  sprayings.  For  the  third  and  fourth  sprayings, 
fourteen  ounces  of  Paris  green  and  London  purple  were  used 
with  the  same  amount  of  lime  and  water  as  for  the  first  spray¬ 
ings.  This  solution  may  appear  too  strong  for  the  last  treat¬ 
ment,  but  if  it  is  kept  thoroughly  stirred,  lohich  is  imperatively 
necessary  to  obtain  good  results,  it  will  injure  neither  fruit  nor 
foliage. 

“I  think  that  as  a  rule  three  sprayings  are  sufficient  if  rain 
does  not  interfere  and  if  there  are  no  neglected  orchards  near.” 

Mr.  A.  Holiday  of  Scappoose  sent  us  the  samples  of  sprayed 
and  unsprayed  apples  (See  plate  I),  and  wrote  as  follows: 

“The  unsprayed  apples  were  gathered  from  old  trees  that  have 
never  been  sprayed,  and  I  think  it  safe  to  say  that  five-sixths  of 


the  apples  were  affected  with  scab.  The  sprayed  fruit  was  taken 
from  trees  eight  or  nine  years  old  that  have  had  good  care.  Hav¬ 
ing  never  sprayed  for  scab  alone,  last  spring  just  before  the  buds 
opened  we  gave  the  trees  a  spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture  and 
the  result  was  w^e  had  very  little  fungus,  where  the  year  before 
some  of  the  fruit  was  badly  affected. 

e  paid  one  dollar  per  barrel  for  lime  and  five  dollars  per 
hundred  for  blue  vitriol  which  made  the  cost  of  material  about 
one  and  one-half  cents  per  gallon.  Two  gallons  of  spray  will 
cover  quite  a  large  tree,  and  when  we  take  into  consideration  that 
at  present  nice  smooth  apples  will  bring  one  dollar  per  box, 
while  inferior  stock  finds  slow  sale  for  less  than  half  that  amount, 
I  think  it  pays  to  spray.” 

Mr.  J.  M.  Wallace  who  has  extensive  apple  and  pear  orchards 
near  Salem  and  who  closely  follow^ed  our  advice  in  spraying  adds 
the  following  testimony: 

“I  sprayed  our  pears  three  times  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture. 
The  two  last  times  I  added  Paris  green  to  the  Bordeaux  for  cod¬ 
ling  moth.  The  spraying  was  a  decided  success.  My  pears  were 
clean,  free  from  spots,  clear  of  fungus  and  in  the  market  sold  at 
the  top  price. 

“Our  Spitzenburg  orchard  of  2,700  trees  we  did  not  spray  for 
the  codling  moth  as  our  foreman  thought  there  were  not  enough 
apples  on  the  trees  to  justify  the  expense.  There  were,  however, 
three  or  four  hundred  bushels,  out  of  which  we  got  30  boxes  free 
from  worms,  which  sold  for  one  dollar  per  box.  The  remain¬ 
der  we  sold  at  the  cider  mill  for  thirty  cents  per  bushel.  This 
experience  speaks  for  itself.” 

FAILURES. 

The  above  examples  are  sufficient  to  prove  that  spraying  is  a 
success  if  intelligently  and  energetically  done,  even  in  Oregon.  Still , 
many  have  sprayed,  have  seen  no  beneficial  results  from  the 
application  and  have  condemned  the  process  as  worthless.  To 
such  we  would  say  study  thoroughly  the  cause  of  your  failure 
and  then  try  again.  Blame  yourself  for  your  failure — do  not 
condemn  a  process  that  has  been  proven  to  be  a  success  by  thous¬ 
ands  of  practical  men  in  most  of  the  principal  fruit  growing  re¬ 
gions  of  the  world.  The  cause  of  your  failure  was  probably 
one  of  the  following  causes: 


8 


1st.  The  use  of  the  wrong  remedy. 

2d.  The  use  of  poor  materials. 

3d.  Lack  of  thoroughness  in  spraying. 

4th.  Spraying  at  the  wrong  time. 

oth.  Failure  to  spray  often  enough. 

We  will  l)riefly  consider  each  of  these  points  in  succession. 

First.  Do  not  spray  because  spraying  in  general  is  a  good 
thing  or  because  some  one  has  succeeded  in  saving  their  crops  by 
spraying.  Stady  the  pests  infesting  each  variety  of  fruit  in  your 
orchard  and  then  apply  the  proper  remedies  for  those  particular 
pests.  Do  not  go  into  your  orchard  with  a  spray  pump  until 
you  know  why  you  are  to  spray,  what  you  should  use,  and  how 
best  to  apply  it.  In  case  of  doubt  on  any  of  these  points  apply 
to  the  Station  for  further  information. 

Seco7id,  Unfortunately,  much  of  the  materials  used  in  spray¬ 
ing  is  adulterated,  and  will  give  poor  results  no  matter  how 
thoroughly  and  intelligently  they  are  used.  This  is  really  a  se¬ 
rious  matter  since  one  not  only  loses  the  amount  paid  for  the 
materials,  but  loses  the  expense  incurred  in  applying  the  sprays, 
may  lose  a  large  portion  of  his  crops,  and  is  likely  to  lose  his 
faith  in  all  spraying  operations.  The  fruit  growers  of  the  State 
should  unite  in  securing  the  passage  of  a  law  imposing  a  heavy 
fine  for  the  sale  of  any  adulterated  spraying  materials.  All  that 
can  be  done  at  present  is  to  require  a  guarantee  that  the  materials 
are  reasonably  pure,  and  in  case  of  doubt  to  send  samples  of  the 
material  to  the  Station  for  analysis. 

Third.  Slipshod  work  in  spraying  can  not  be  too  strongly  con¬ 
demned,  and  yet  it  is  very  common.  Last  season  I  passed  some 
trees,  not  far  from  the  Station  buildings,  that  had  recently  been 
sprayed  with  Bordeaux  mixture  and  on  which  the  marks  of  care¬ 
less  work  were  everywhere  apparent.  Instead  of  being  covered 
uniformly  with  a  delicate  blue  tint,  these  trees  looked  as  though 
a  fresco  painter  had  attempted  to  paint  designs  in  blue  upon 
their  green  foliage.  Not  more  than  one-half  of  the  leaves  had 
lieen  touched  by  the  spray.  “Squirting  a  few  quarts  of  water 
upon  a  tree  as  you  hurry  past  is  not  spraying.  A  tree  is  honest¬ 
ly  sprayed  when  it  is  wet  all  over,  on  all  the  branches  and  on 
both  sides  of  the  leaves.  An  insect  or  fungus  is  not  killed  until 
the  poison  is  placed  where  the  pest  is.  Bugs  do  not  search  for 
poison.”  Thoroughness  in  spraying  then  consists  in  getting  the 


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9 


mixture  evenly  distributed  over  every  part  of  the  tree.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  drench  the  tree.  That  is  a  needless  waste  of  ma¬ 
terial.  Two  or  three  gallons  of  the  mixture  are  sufficient  to 
thoroughly  spray  a  fully  grown  apple  tree.  The  important 
point  is  to  get  it  evenly  distributed. 

Fourth.  Unfortunately,  it  is  impossible  to  give  definite  direc¬ 
tions  regarding  the  time  to  spray,  because  that  varies  with  the 
locality,  with  the  season,  with  the  varieties  to  be  sprayed,  and 
with  the  pests  for  which  one  sprays.  However,  under  the  head 
of  insects  and  diseases  and  in  a  spraying  calendar  appended  to 
this  bulletin  we  shall  indicate  the  approximate  times  at  which 
the  principal  spra5^s  should  be  applied.  It  is  well  to  remember, 
however,  that  spraying  for  the  codling  moth  and  for  most  fungus 
diseases  is  preventive  and  must  be  applied  before  the  pest  has 
made  much  appreciable  headway.  It  is  also  well  to  remember 
that  it  is  not  best  to  spray  trees  when  they  are  in  blossom.  It  is 
not  necessary,  and  it  is  not  only  liable  to  injure  the  blossoms  but 
is  certain  to  poison  many  of  the  fruit  growers’  best  friends — the 
bees.  Another  point  to  be  kept  in  mind  is  that  the  spraying 
must  be  do7ie  at  the  proper  time.  If  done  a  few  days  too  early  or 
too  late  it  is  likely  to  be  entirely  useless,  whereas  the  same  ap¬ 
plication  if  made  at  the  right  time  would  have  been  entirely  sat¬ 
isfactory.  When  the  time  for  spraying  comes  nothing  should  be 
allowed  to  interfere  with  it.  Even  cloudy  or  rainy  weather 
should  not  cause  a  delay  for  any  considerable  time  because  near¬ 
ly  all  the  mixtures,  if  well  prepared,  and  if  they  have  a  short 
time  to  dry  will  remain  upon  the  trees  through  several  heavy 
showers.  After  long  heavy  rainstorms,  however,  it  is  usually 
necessary  to  repeat  the  application. 

Fifth.  There  are,  it  is  true,  some  pests  that  may  be  controlled 
by  one  or  two  sprayings,  but  the  vast  majority  of  the  really  seri¬ 
ous  enemies  of  our  fruit  trees  require  three,  four,  and  perhaps  five 
applications  to  keep  them  under  perfect  control.  In  general  no 
one  should  expect  to  make  less  than  three  or  four  applications. 

THE  SPRAYING  OUTFIT. 

In  order  to  apply  any  spraying  mixture  thoroughly  and  eco¬ 
nomically  to  every  part  of  a  tree,  one  must  use  a  good  pump  and 
good  nozzles.  It  is  impossible  to  recommend  any  exact  style  of 
pump  that  is  best  for  all  purposes.  If  one  has  but  a  few  trees  to 


10 


ypray  almost  any  of  the  numerous  styles  of  bucket  pumps  will 
answer  the  pui’pose.  But  for  orchard  work  the  pump  should  l)e 
large  enough,  and  should  tiave  an  air  chamber  suflicient  to  main¬ 
tain  a  steady  spray  from  several  nozzles.  All  of  its  parts  that  come 
in  contact  with  the  liquid  should  })e  non-corrosive,  it  should  l>e 
strongly  l)uilt,  simple  in  construction,  easily  taken  apart  for  re¬ 
pairs  and  should  have  the  pii)es  so  arranged  as  to  prevent  clog¬ 
ging.  It  should  he  provided  with  an  agitator  which  will  keej) 
the  mixture  well  stirred  and  should  be  provided  with  couplings 
for  at  least  two  lines  of  hose.  Several  styles  of  pumps  that  will 
approximately  meet  the  above  requirements  are  upon  tlie  market 
and  when  mounted  upon  a  suitable  tank,  and  provided  with  two 
leads  of  hose,  bamboo  extension  rods — for  elevating  the  nozzles — 
and  good  nozzles,  most  of  them  wdll  give  good  results.  The  best 
nozzle  in  our  estimation  is  the  Vermorel.  For  rapid  work  we 
prefer  the  double  Vermorel  and  would  select  that  form  having  a 
joint  between  the  nozzle  chamber  and  elbow  to  facilitate  cleaning 
in  case  of  clogging.  The  Vermorel  nozzle  throws  a  very  finely 
divided  spray  and  is  suitable  for  nearly  all  purposes  except  the 
spraying  of  very  tall  trees.  For  such  purpose  some  graduating 
nozzle  like  the  McGowan  is  to  be  preferred.  The  form  of  tank, 
like  the  style  of  pump,  depends  upon  the  work  to  be  done.  If 
only  a  few  trees  are  to  be  sprayed  a  small  pump  mounted  on  a 
barrel  will  make  a  convenient  outfit,  l)ut  if  an  orchard  of  any 
considerable  size  is  to  be  sprayed  the  pump  should  be  mounted 
upon  some  such  tank  as  that  shown  in  the  accompanying  plate — 
one  that  will  hold  250  to  300  gallons  of  mixture.  Such  a  tank 
will  effect  a  saving  in  time,  sufficient  to  more  than  cover  its  cost, 
in  a  single  season.  Steam  spraying  outfits  are  being  introduced 
for  use  in  large  orchards  and  it  is  claimed  for  them  that  they  are 
more  economical  than  the  hand  power  machines. 

INSECTICIDES. 

For  all  practical  purposes  insects  may  be  divided  into  two 
great  classes. 

a.  Those  that  actually  chew  and  swallow  the  tissue  of  the  plant 
or  its  fruit. 

b.  Those  that  pierce  the  surface  of  the  plant  with  a  long  slender 
beak  and  suck  up  its  juices,  but  eat  none  of  the  tissues. 


11 


To  class  belong  all  caterpillars,  beetles,  slugs,  codling 

moth,  etc. 

To  class  belong  the  green  aphis,  the  woolly  aphis,  the  var¬ 
ious  scale  insects,  squash  bugs,  and  other  true  bugs,  the  red 
spider,  etc. 

The  injury  caused  by  insects  of  class  ^‘<2”  is  readily  observed 
and  hence  is  more  apt  to  receive  prompt  attention,  while  on  the 
other  hand  the  injury  caused  by  those  of  class  although  no 
less  severe,  is  often  less  noticeable.  Hence  it  is  .  that  insects  of 
this  class,  which  injure  the  plant  simply  by  appropriating  its 
juices,  thus  causing  the  foliage  to  become  spotted  or  yellow,  and 
finally  to  wither  and  die,  are  allowed  to  multiply  to  such  an  ex¬ 
tent  that  the  most  energetic  measures  are  required  for  their  control. 

A  brief  consideration  of  the  above  facts  regarding  the  general 
habits  of  insects,  will  serve  to  convince  one  that  while  most  in¬ 
sects  belonging  to  class  “  a  ”  are  readily  destroyed  by  the  poison 
sprays,  on  the  other  hand,  insects  belonging  to  class  are  but 
little  if  at  all  affected  by  them,  since  they  secure  their  food  be¬ 
neath  the  surface  of  the  leaf  and  hence  can  not  be  made  to  eat 
any  of  the  poison.  It  thus  becomes  necessary  in  order  to  success¬ 
fully  deal  with  these  two  classes  of  insects,  to  have  two  general 
classes  of  insecticides. 

1st.  The  poisons,  as  Paris  green  and  London  purple,  which  are 
to  be  used  against  insects  of  class  “  but  which  are  practically 
of  no  value  against  those  of  class 

2d.  Those  substances  which  kill  by  contact,  as  kerosene  emul¬ 
sion,  the  resin  wash,  the  lime,  salt,  and  sulphur  mixture,  whale- 
oil  soap,  lye,  sulphur,  etc.,  which  are  chiefly  used  against  insects 
of  class  “A” 

POISONS. 

The  chief  insecticides  of  this  class  are  Paris  green  and  London 
purple.  These  are  so  well  known  that  but  few  words  concerning 
them  are  necessary.  Paris  green  is,  we  think,  undoubtedly  the 
better  of  the  two.  It  is  more  uniform  in  strength,  kills  more 
quickly,  and  is  less  liable  to  burn  the  foliage.  London  purple  is 
slightly  cheaper,  and,  being  lighter,  is  more  easily  kept  from 
settling  to  the  bottom  of  the  spraying  tank.  For  use  against  the 
codling  moth,  caterpillars,  and  most  other  insects  of  class  “^2,”  ap¬ 
ply  either,  in  the  form  of  a  spray,  using  the  following  proportions: 


12 

SPRAY  NO.  1. 


Paris  green  or  Pondon  purple . i  pound. 

Unslaked  lime . 2  pounds. 

Water . 160  to  200  gallons. 

Slake  the  lime  and  while  it  is  slaking  stir  in  the  Paris  green. 
Then  strain  the  mixture  through  a  coarse  sieve  or  piece  of  burlap, 
and  dilute  with  the  required  amount  of  water.  The  Paris  green 
and  water  can  be  used  in  the  above  proportion  without  the  addi¬ 
tion  of  the  lime,  but  it  is  much  safer  to  add  it  since  it  pre¬ 
cipitates  the  soluble  arsenic  compounds,  and  thus  prevents  injury 
to  the  foliage.  This  is  especially  true  in  spraying  such  tender 
foliage  as  that  of  the  peach. 

If  at  any  time,  it  is  desirable  to  spray  at  the  same  time  with 
an  insecticide  and  a  fungicide,  and  such  is  usually  the  case,  either 
of  the  above  poisons  may  safely  be  added  to  the  Bordeaux  mix¬ 
ture — the  lime  in  the  latter  preventing  all  injurious  effects  of 
the  poison  upon  the  foliage. 

On  account  of  the  price  and  the  fact  that  Paris  green  and  London 
purple  are  generally  supposed  to  be  adulterated,  we  receive  fre¬ 
quent  requests  for  information  regarding  the  feasibility  of  using 
arsenic- -arsenious  acid — as  a  substitute.  For  this  reason  the 
following  formula  is  given  with  the  warning  that  it  be  used  with 
caution,  since,  if  any  of  the  arsenic  remains  in  solution  instead 
of  being  precipitated  by  boiling  with  the  lime,  it  is  liable  to  in¬ 
jure  the  foliage: 

SPRAY  NO.  la. 

White  arsenic . i' pound. 

Lime,  unslaked . 2  pounds. 

Water . 3  gallons. 

Boil  together  for  at  least  an  hour,  and  when  ready  for  use  di¬ 
lute  with  200  gallons  of  water,  or  preferably  with  Bordeaux  mix¬ 
ture.  AVe  have  used  this  preparation  successfully  but  find  that 
considerable  care  is  necessary  to  prolong  the  boiling  until  all  of 
the  arsenious  acid  is  precipitated  as  insoluable  arsenite  of  lime. 

CONTACT  INSECTICIDES. 

SPRAY  NO.  2 — KEROSENE  EMULSION. 

We  consider  this  one  of  the  best  insecticides  to  use  against  in¬ 
sects  of  class  “  Kerosene  kills  by  contact  and  its  penetrating 
power  is  such  that  but  few  insects  can  resist  it.  The  pure  oil  is. 


13 


however,  about  as  injurious  to  plants  as  to  insects,  and  thus  it 
becomes  necessary  to  emulsify  it  with  some  substance  that  it  may 
readily  be  diluted  with  water.  Soap  or  sour  milk  are  the  best  of 
such  substances.  The  emulsion  with  soap  is  made  as  follows: 


Water .  i  gallon. 

Soap  (preferably  whale-oil  soap) . Yz  pound. 

Kerosene  oil . . .  2  gallons. 


Dissolve  the  soap  in  the  water  by  boiling.  Add  the  suds,  still 
boiling  hot,  to  the  oil  and  violently  agitate  the  mixture  by  pump¬ 
ing  it  back  upon  itself  through  a  force  pump.  If  hot,  the  emul¬ 
sion  should  form  in  about  five  minutes,  otherwise  it  may  not 
emulsify  at  all  without  reheating.  A  perfect  emulsion  should 
have  a  creamy  appearance,  and  should  adhere  to  the  surface  of 
glass  without  oiliness.  If  not  perfect,  the  oil  will  rise  to  the  sur¬ 
face  and  much  harm  may  result,  especially  if  the  emulsion  is 
used  as  a  dip  for  nursery  stock  or  animals.  Such  an  emulsion 
may  be  used  immediately;  or,  if  well  made  may  be  kept  indefi¬ 
nitely  as  a  stock  mixture  to  be  diluted  and  used  as  wanted. 

When  ready  for  use,  dilute  the  required  amount  of  stock  emul¬ 
sion  with  8  to  15  or  20  times  its  bulk  of  water,  and  use  as  a  spray. 
The  stronger  mixture  applied  in  the  fall,  has  been  found  effective 
in  destroying  the  pear-leaf  blister  mite.  The  weaker  will  be  found 
sufficiently  strong  to  destroy  the  young  of  the  oyster-shell  scale, 
if  applied  to  infested  trees  just  after  the  blossoms  fall,  and  will 
also  prove  effective  in  destroying  green  aphis,  woolly  aphis,  and 
red  spider,  if  applied  at  any  time  when  they  are  observed  to  be 
abundant. 

While  recommending  the  above  emulsions,  I  am  well  aware 
that,  in  the  past,  they  have  not  been  the  favorite  sprays  with 
Oregon  fruit  growers,  but  I  still  believe  that  careful  and  more  ex¬ 
tensive  use  of  properly  made  emulsions  will  yet  demonstrate  that 
they  are  among  the  best,  if  not  the  best  washes  we  have  for  con¬ 
trolling  the  above  mentioned  class  of  insects. 

One  of  the  chief  objections  urged  against  these  emulsions  is 
their  cOvSt,  and  yet  when  we  consider  the  ease  with  which  they  are 
made  and  their  effectiveness,  we  must,  notwithstanding  the  exor¬ 
bitant  price  of  kerosene  oil,  still  number  them  among  our  cheapest 
effective  washes.  Two  gallons  of  kerosene  and  one  gallon  of 
strong  suds  will,  in  process  of  emulsifying,  increase  in  volume  to 
about  four  gallons  of  stock  emulsion,  which  when  diluted  with 


14 


water  in  the  a])ove  indicated  projxjrtions  will  make  from  32  to  80 
gallons  of  spraying  strength — the  latter  thus  costing  (at  the  pres¬ 
ent  price  of  kerosene)  from  about  cents  down  to  ^  of  a  cent 
per  gallon. 

It  it  also  urged  against  kerosene  emulsion  that  it  cannot  l>e 
safely  used  in  this  climate — that  it  will  kill  the  trees.  My  ex¬ 
perience  has  been  that  it  can  be  as  safely  used  here  as  anywhere 
else.  All  that  is  necessary  to  safely  use  this  remedy  is  to  strictly 
follow  directions  in  making  the  emulsion,  dilute  it  as  directed  be¬ 
fore  applying  it,  and  then  see  that  it  does  not  riui  down  the  trunk 
of  the  tree  and  collect  in  the  '''  cup of  earth  about  the  crowji. 

SPRAY  NO.  3 - RESIN  WASH. 

This  is  a  favorite  wash  in  California  for  several  of  the  scales 
infesting  citrous  fruits.  In  this  State  its  chief  value  is  as  a  spray 
for  the  various  kinds  of  plant  lice.  For  this  purpose  it  may  be 
used  as  a  substitute  for  kerosene  emulsion  with  good  results,  par¬ 
ticularly  in  the  dry  summer  months.  It  can  also  be  used  as  a 
summer  spray  for  San  Jose  scale,  but  we  do  not  advise  such  use 
since  summer  sprays  are  of  but  little  value  against  this  insect. 
The  resin  wash  may  be  made  as  follows: 


Resin .  20  pounds. 

Crude  caustic  soda  (78  per  cent. ' .  5  pounds. 

Fish  oil . 2%  pints. 

Water  to  make . 100  gallons. 


Place  the  resin,  soda,  and  oil  in  a  kettle  with  sufficient  water 
to  cover  them  to  a  depth  of  three  or  four  inches.  Boil  about  two 
hours,  making  occasional  additions  of  water,  or  until  the  com¬ 
pound  resembles  very  strong  black  coffee.  Dilute  to  one-third 
the  final  bulk  with  hot  water,  or  with  cold  water  added  slowly 
over  the  fire,  making  a  stock  mixture  which  must  be  diluted  to 
the  full  amount  of  100  gallons  when  ready  for  use. 

SPRAY  NO.  4 - LIME,  SULPHUR  AND  SALT. 

This  is  a  wdnter  wash  and  is  bv  far  the  most  satisfactorv  rem- 

%/  V 

edy  for  the  San  Jose  scale  that  w'e  have  tested.  It  should  never 
be  applied  to  trees  after  the  buds  have  opened  in  spring. 

Several  methods  of  preparing  it  are  in  use,  hut  the  formula 
that  seems  to  give  the  best  results  is  based  upon  the  extensive 
experience  of  Mr.  Emile  Schanno,  Horticultural  Commissioner 
for  the  Fourth  District.  It  is  as  follows: 


15 


Lime  (unslaked) .  50  pounds. 

Sulphur .  50  pounds. 

Salt .  50  pounds. 

Water . 150  gallons. 

Slake  the  lime,  add  the  sulphur,  cover  with  water  and  boil 

briskly  for  at  least  one  hour,  or  until  the  lime  and  sulphur  are 
completely  dissolved.  Then  add  the  salt  and  continue  to  boil 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  M  hen  ready  for  use  dilute  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty  gallons. 

The  best  results  are  obtained  with  this  wash  if  it  is  applied, 
while  still  warm,  with  considerable  force  in  the  form  of  a  coarse 
spray. 

A  mixture  somewhat  similar  to  the  above  is  made  by  using 
seven  or  eight  pounds  of  copper  sulphate  in  place  of  the  fifty 
pounds  of  salt.  It  originated  in  the  work  of  the  State  Board  of 
Horticulture  and  gives  most  excellent  results  when  used  as  a 
winter  spray. 

Both  of  the  above  mixtures  are  difficult  to  properly  prepare 
and  unless  one  has  ample  facilities  for  the  work  greater  satisfac¬ 
tion  will  be  obtained  by  purchasing  the  prepared  sprays  than  by 
attempting  to  make  them  oneself.  The  lime,  sulphur  and  salt  is 
sold  as  Spray  No.  1,  and  the  lime,  sulphur  and  copper  sulphate 
as  Spray  No.  2,  by  David  M.  Dunn  &  Co.,  Portland,  Oregon. 

SPRAY  NO.  5— BORDEAUX  MIXTURE. 

This  is  perhaps  the  most  generally  useful  of  all  the  spraying 
mixtures.  It  is  the  principal  remedy  for  fungus  diseases,  and 
also  has  some  value  as  an  insecticide.  It  also  has  a  beneficial 
effect  upon  plants  which  is  independent  of  its  effect  upon  fungus 
and  insect  parasites,  and  is  the  best  medium  in  which  to  apply 
Paris  green  or  London  purple.  In  fact,  had  it  no  value  as  a  fun¬ 
gicide  or  insecticide,  I  am  strongly  of  the  opinion  that  its  bene¬ 
ficial  effect  upon  plants  and  its  value  as  a  medium  in  which  to 
apply  the  arsenites  would  justify  me  in  recommending  that  bor- 
dcaitx  mixture  be  made  the  basis  of  all  sprays  coutahiing  the  arse¬ 
nites.  i.  e.,  bordeaux  mixture  should  be  used  instead  of  pure  water 
in  preparing  Spray  No.  1. 

Bordeaux  mixture  is  ordinarily  made  as  follows: 

Copper  sulphate .  6  pounds. 

Lime  (unslaked) . 4-6  pounds. 

Water . 50  gallons. 


16 


For  winter  spraying  in  those  portions  of  the  State  that  have 
excessive  rainfall  it  has  been  found  best  to  use  eight  to  ten 
pounds  of  lime. 

So  much  depends  u]:)on  the  correct  preparation  of  hordeaux 
mixture  that  we  quote  in  full  the  directions  for  its  preparation 
which  are  given  by  Dr.  Galloway  of  the  United  States  Depart¬ 
ment  of  Agriculture: 

“It  has  been  found  that  the  method  of  combining  the  ingredi¬ 
ents  has  an  important  bearing  on  })Oth  the  chemical  composition 
and  i)hysical  structure  of  the  mixture.  For  example,  if  the  cop¬ 
per  sulphate  is  dissolved  in  a  small  quantity  of  water  and  the 
lime  milk  diluted  to  a  limited  extent  only,  there  results,  when 
these  materials  are  brought  together,  a  thick  mixture,  having 
strikingly  different  characters  from  one  made  })y  pouring  together 
weak  solutions  of  lime  and  copper  sulphate.  It  is  true,  further¬ 
more,  that  if  the  copper  sulphate  solution  and  lime  milk  are 
poured  together  while  the  latter  or  both  are  warm,  different  effects 
are  obtained  than  if  both  solutions  are  cool  at  the  moment  of 
mixing. 

“  Briefly,  the  best  results  have  been  obtained  from  the  use  of 
the  hordeaux  mixture  made  in  accordance  with  the  following  di¬ 
rections:  In  a  barrel  or  other  suitable  vessel  place  25  gallons  of 
water.  Weigh  out  6  pounds  of  copper  sulphate,  then  tie  the  same 
in  a  piece  of  coarse  gunny  sack  and  suspend  it  just  beneath  the 
surface  of  the  water.  By  tying  the  bag  to  a  stick  laid  across  the 
top  of  the  barrel  no  further  attention  will  be  required.  In  another 
vessel  slack  4  pounds  of  lime,  using  care  in  order  to  obtain  a 
smooth  paste,  free  from  grit  and  small  lumps.  To  accomplish 
this  it  is  best  to  place  the  lime  in  an  ordinary  water  pail  and  add 
only  a  small  quantity  of  water  at  first,  say  a  quart  or  a  quart 
and  a  half.  \'  hen  the  lime  begins  to  crack  and  crumble  and  the 
water  to  disappear  add  another  quart  or  more,  exercising  care  that 
the  lime  at  no  time  gets  too  dry.  Toward  the  last  considerable 
water  will  be  required,  but  if  added  carefully  and  slowly  a  per¬ 
fectly  smooth  paste  will  be  obtained,  provided,  of  course,  the  lime 
is  of  good  quality.  A'  hen  the  lime  is  slacked  add  sufficient  water 
to  the  paste  to  bring  the  whole  up  to  25  gallons.  When  the  cop¬ 
per  sulphate  is  entirely  dissolved  and  the  lime  is  cool,  pour  the 
lime  milk  and  copper  sulphate  solution  slowly  together  into  a 
])arrel  holding  50  gallons.  The  milk  of  lime  should  be  thoroughh^ 
stirred  before  pouring.  The  method  described  insures  good  mix¬ 
ing,  but  to  complete  this  work  the  barrel  of  liquid  should  receive 
final  stirring,  for  at  least  three  minutes,  with  a  broad  wooden 
j)addle. 

“  It  is  now  necessary  to  determine  whether  the  mixture  is  per¬ 
fect — that  is,  if  it  will  be  safe  to  apply  it  to  tender  foliage.  To 


C()LMvOI<:  vSPRAVIX(',  orTl'IT 


17 


accomplish  this,  two  simple  tests  may  be  used.  First  insert  the 
blade  of  a  penknife  in  the  mixture,  allowing  it  to  remain  there 
for  at  least  one  minute.  If  metallic  copper  forms  on  the  blade, 
or,  in  other  words,  if  the  polished  surface  of  the  steel  assumes  the 
color  of  copper  plate,  the  mixture  is  unsafe  and  more  lime  must 
he  added.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  blade  of  the  knife  remains  un¬ 
changed,  it  is  safe  to  conclude  that  the  mixture  is  as  perfect  as  it 
can  be  made.  As  an  additional  test,  however,  some  of  the  mix¬ 
ture  may  be  poured  into  an  old  plate  or  saucer,  and  while  held 
between  the  eyes  and  the  light  the  breath  should  be  gently  blown 
upon  the  liquid  for  at  least  half  a  minute.  If  the  mixture  is 
properly  made,  a  thin  pellicle,  looking  like  oil  on  water,  wdll  be¬ 
gin  to  form  on  the  surface  of  the  liquid.  If  no  pellicle  forms, 
more  milk  of  lime  should  be  added. 

“The  foregoing  directions  apply  to  cases  where  small  quanti¬ 
ties  of  the  mixture  are  needecl  for  more  or  less  immediate  use. 
If  spraying  is  to  be  done  upon  a  large  scale,  it  will  be  found  much 
more  convenient  and  economical  in  every  way  to  prepare  what 
are  known  as  stock  solutions  of  both  the  copper  and  lime.  To 
prepare  a  stock  solution  of  copper  sulphate,  procure  a  barrel  hold¬ 
ing  50  gallons.  Weigh  out  100  pounds  of  copper  sulphate,  and 
after  tying  it  in  a  sack  suspend  it  so  that  it  will  hang  as  near  the 
top  of  the  barrel  as  possible.  Fill  the  barrel  with  water,  and  in 
two  or  three  days  the  copper  will  be  dissolved. 

“Now  remove  the  sack  and  add  enough  w^ater  to  bring  the  so- 
ution  again  up  to  the  50  gallon  mark,  previously  made  on  the 
barrel.  It  will  be  understood,  of  course,  that  this  second  adding 
of  water  is  merely  to  replace  the  space  previously  occupied  by  the 
sack  and  the  crystals  of  copper  sulphate.  Each  gallon  of  the  so¬ 
lution  thus  made  will  contain  2  pounds  of  copper  sulphate,  and, 
under  all  ordinary  conditions  of  temperature,  there  will  be  no 
material  recrystallization,  so  that  the  stock  preparation  may  be 
kept  indefinitely. 

“  Stock  lime  may  be  prepared  in  much  the  same  way  as  the 
copper  sulphate  solution.  Procure  a  barrel  holding  50  gallons, 
making  a  mark  to  indicate  the  50  gallon  point.  Weigh  out  100 
pounds  of  fresh  lime,  place  it  in  the  barrel  and  slack  it.  When 
slacked  add  sufficient  water  to  bring  the  whole  mass  up  to  50 
gallons.  Each  gallon  of  this  preparation  contains,  after  thorough 
stirring,  2  pounds  of  lime. 

“  When  it  is  desired  to  make  bordeaux  of  the  50  gallon  formula 
it  is  only  necessary  to  measure  out  gallons  of  the  stock  copper 
solution,  and,  after  thorough  stirring,  2  gallons  of  the  stock  lime; 
dilute  each  to  25  gallons,  mix,  stir,  and  test  as  already  described. 
One  test  will  be  sufficient  in  this  case.  In  other  words,  it  will 
not  be  necessary  to  test  each  lot  of  bordeaux  mixture  made  from 
the  stock  preparation,  provided  the  first  lot  is  perfect,  and  no 
change  is  made  in  the  quantities  of  the  materials  used.  Special 


18 


care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the  lime  milk  is  stirred  thorough¬ 
ly  each  time  l)efore  applying.  As  a  final  precaution  it  will  be 
w^ell  to  keep  both  the  stock  copper  sulphate  and  the  stock  lime 
tightly  covered.” 

SPRAY  x\0.  6 - AMMONIACAL  SOLUTION  OF  COPI>ER  CARBONATE. 

Bordeaux  mixture  is  the  most  generally  useful  of  all  fungicidal 
mixtures,  but  for  spraying  fruits  that  are  nearly  mature  the  am- 
moniacal  solution  of  copper  carbonate  is  usually  preferred.  It  is 
prepared  as  follows: 

Copper  carbonate .  5  ounces. 

Strong  aqua  ammonia  .  3  pints. 

Water . 45  gallons. 

The  copper  carbonate  is  first  mixed  into  a  thin  paste  with  a 
little  water,  and  then  the  ammonia  is  added.  The  result  is  a 
clear  deep  blue  solution  w^hich  is  then  to  he  diluted  with  the  45 
gallons  of ’water.  Faris  green  or  Loridon  purple  must  not  be  added 
to  this  mixture. 

Sprays  and  Spray  Calendar  for  Treatment  of  Some  of  the 

Most  Important  Pests. 

APPLES  AND  PEARS. 

For  codling  moth,  apple  scab  and  all  leaf  eatmg  insects:  First, 
apply  spray  No.  5  before  the  buds  open.  Second,  spray  with  No. 
5  plus  Paris  green  (See  page  15)  after  the  blossoms  fall  and  be¬ 
fore  the  calyx  closes.  Third,  the  same  as  second,  but  ten  days  to 
two  weeks  later.  Fourth,  use  spray  No.  1  at  intervals  of  about 
two  weeks  until  fruit  begins  to  ripen.  Fifth,  the  sprays  should 
he  supplemented  by  rapid  destruction  of  all  fallen  fruit,  and  by 
screens  in  the  windows  of  storerooms  in  which  apples  are  kept, 
and  may  be  further  supplemented  by  banding  the  trees  wdth  bur¬ 
laps  and  killing  the  larvae  and  pupae  that  congregate  under  the 
hands. 

For  San  fose  scale :  Spray  thoroughly  with  No.  4  in  winter. 

For  woolly  aphis  on  bi'anches :  Spray  thoroughly  with  No.  4 
in  winter.  If  necessary  supplement  this  with  summer  sprays 
No.  2,  or  No.  3. 

For  green  aphis :  To  destroy  eggs  spray  in  winter  with  No.  4. 
If  necessary  supplement  this  by  thoroughly  underspraying  in¬ 
fested  leaves  in  summer  with  No.  2,  or  No.  3. 

For  ting  is :  Thoroughly  underspray  infested  leaves  with  No. 
2,  or  No.  3. 


19 


For  canker :  Spray  early  in  August  and  again  in  October  with 
No.  5.  If  fruit  is  on  the  trees  use  spray  No.  6  instead. 

PRUNES. 

For  shot-hole  fungus :  First,  spray  with  No.  5  ten  days  after 
the  blossoms  fall.  Second,  repeat  in  about  two  weeks.  Third, 
repeat  again  in  about  two  weeks. 

For  browfi  7''ot :  If  the  brown  rot  was  present  in  the  orchard 
last  season  the  above  sprayings  should  be  supplemented  by  an 
additional  application  of  No.  5,  before  the  buds  open,  and  if  the 
ripening  period  is  preceded  by  moist  warm  weather  one  or  two 
applications  of  No.  6  may  be  necessary  to  save  the  crop.  All  re¬ 
fuse  fruit  on  the  trees  or  ground  should  also  be  destroyed. 

For  twig  borer:  If  this  troublesome  pest  is  present  Paris 
green  should  be  added  to  No.  5  for  the  first  three  applications 
recommended  for  brown  rot. 

For  San  Jose  scale :  See  under  Apples  and  Pears. 

CHERRIES. 

For  shot-hole  fungus :  See  under  Prunes. 

For  brown  rot :  See  under  Prunes. 

For  cherry  slugs  and  other  leaf-eating  insects :  Spray  at  be¬ 
ginning  of  injury  with  No.  1.  If  fruit  is  ripening  use  Hellebore, 
1  ounce  to  2  gallons  of  water. 

For  San  Jose  scale :  See  under  Apples  and  Pears. 

The  Entomologist  of  the  Station  is  pleased  at  all  times  to  re¬ 
ceive  specimens  of  injurious  insects  and  parts  of  infested  plants? 
and  will  so  far  as  possible  give  directions  for  curing  or  prevent¬ 
ing  the  injury.  Specimens  should  not  be  sent  in  letters  but  in 
pasteboard  or  tin  boxes. 


A.  B.  CORDLEY. 


liIST  OF  BULiLiETIJMS 


Published  by  the  Oregon  Agricultural  Experiir.ent 
Station  to  December  31,  1897. 


*No.  I,  1888— History  and  Organization  . 

*No.  2,  1889 — Horticulture .  . 

*No.  3,  1889 — Entomology  and  Chemistry  . 

*No.  4,  1890 — Agriculture,  Horticulture,  Chemistry 
=''N'o.  5,  1890 — Chemistry,  Entomology,  Zoology 

No.  6,  1890 — Chemistry,  Zoology  . 

No.  7,  1890 — Small  Fruits  and  Vegetables . 

No.  8,1891 — Varieties  of  Wheat  and  h'lax 

*No.  9,  1891 — Silos  and  Silage  .  . 

No.  10,  1891 — Entomology .  .  . 

*No.  II,  1891 — Grasses  and  Potatoes...  . 

‘•'■•No.  12,  1891 — Strawbf^rries .  .  . . 

*No.  13,  1891 — Chemistry  ■ .  . 

*No.  14,  1891— Entomology .  .  . 

*No.  15,  1892 — Horticulture  .  . 

*No.  16,  1892 — Varieties  of  Wheat  .  . 

*No.  17,  1892 — Sugar  Beets  .  . 

*No.  18,  1892 — Entomology .  .  . 

*No.  19,  1892— Oregon  Weeds  .  . 

*No.  20,  1892 — Pig  Feeding .  .  . 

*No.  21,  1892 — ^Soils  of  Oregon  .  . 

*No.  22,  1893— Horticultural  Department...  . 

*No.  23,  1893 — ^Sugar  Beets  in  Oregon  . 

""No.  24,  1893 — Potatoes  and  Roots  .  . 

*No.  25,  1893 — Codlin  Moth,  Hop  Douse  . 

'•'No.  26,  1893 — Drainage .  .  . 

No.  27,  1893 — Plant  Diseases,  etc...  . 

No.  28,  1894— Pig  F'eeding,  continued....  . 

No.  29,  1894 — Horticulture,  Pruning,  etc . 

No.  30,  1894 — Potatoes  and  Roots,  continued  . 

No.  31,  1894— Codlin  Moth,  Hop  Douse  . 

No.  32,  1894 — Five  Farmers’ Foes .  . 

No.  33,  1894 — Tent  Caterpillar .  . 

No.  34,  1895 — ^Fruits  and  Vegetables.....  . 

No.  35,  1895— Pig  P'eeding,  continued  . 

No.  36,  1895 — ^Composition  and  Use  of  Fertilizers.... 
No.  37,  1895 — ^P'xperiments  in  Cattle  Feeding 

No.  38,  1895 — Fruit  Pests .  . .  . . 

No.  39,  1895 — Grasses,  Chemistry  . 

No.  40,  1896 — Prunes,  Apples  and  Pears  . 

’'‘No.  41,  1896 — Spraying  .  . 

No.  47,  1896 — Feeding  Sheaf  Wheat .  . 

No.  43,  1897 — ^Flax  Culture, .  . 

No.  44,  1897 — Oregon  Sugar  Beets .  . 

No  45,  1897 — Prunes  in  Oregon...  . 

*No.  46,  1897 — Cicuta .  .  . 

No.  47,  1897— Cheat  and  Clover...  . 

No.  48,  1898 — Spraying .  .  . 

No.  49,  i898^Paris  Green  .  . 

Circular  No.ji — Dairying  in  Oregon.....  . 


. Grimm. 

Dake. 

Washburn. 


....Irish  and  Washburn. 

.  Washburn. 

.  Coote. 

.  p-rench, 

.  French. 

.  Washburn. 

.  French. 

.  ...Coote. 

. Shaw. 

.  Washburn. 

.  Coote. 

.  French. 

.  Shaw. 

.  Washburn. 

.  Craig. 

.  French. 

.........  Shaw 

.  ....Coote 

.  Shaw. 

....  French. 

.  Washburn. 

.  Bloss. 

.  Craig. 

.  ...French. 

.  .  Coote.. 

.  ...  French. 

.  Washburn. 

.  Craig. 

.  Washburn. 

.  . ,. Coote. 

.  French. 

. Shaw. 

.  French. 

.  Washburn. 

.  Shaw. 

.  .  ...  Hedrick. 

. Hedrick  and  Cordley. 

.  P'rench. 

.  French. 

.  Shaw, 

Hedrick,  Cordley  and  Shaw. 

.  Hedrick. 

.  Shaw  and  French. 

.  Cordley. 

.  Shaw. 

Shaw,  F'rench  and  Kent. 


Copies  will  be  sent  to  applicants  so  long  as  the  supply  lasts.  Those  desig¬ 
nated  by  an  asterisk  (*)  are  already  exhausted. 

Address  THOS.  M.  CATCH, 
Director  of  Experiment  Station,  Corvallis,  Oregon. 


